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These colorful pipes are a part of a store display in the bustling city of Amman.
The King and I
By Peter Greenberg '72
Photos by Robert Landau

And then, one day, King Hussein insisted they meet immediately, and alone. That's when his father told him of his plan. "It's a shock when somebody says, you know, 'I want you to have this responsibility.' I said, 'Well sir, this is something that I never wanted; it wasn't something that I ever aspired to.' And he said, 'That's probably one of the main reasons why it's got to be you.' "

Shortly after that conversation, Hussein died.

Abdullah's life was forever changed. "I had a wife and three children, and all of a sudden, I had a family of 4 million. And the tremendous responsibility of the burden was hard to swallow."

But this thoroughly modern monarch has risen to the task. He understands the challenges, and he confronts them every day with boundless energy and determination.

Unlike Saudi Arabia and Iraq, Jordan has no oil. Its economy depends to a great extent on tourism, which has been virtually nonexistent since 1998 due to conflicts in the surrounding region. Perhaps that explains why last year, at my suggestion, the king became my special tour guide, and for five days we rode camels, raced Harleys, and climbed mountains together. We went scuba diving in the Red Sea, and His Majesty flew me all over the country in his Blackhawk helicopter — all for a one-hour Travel Channel special, "Jordan: The Royal Tour." It marked the first time in television history that a ruling monarch had ever hosted a show of this kind.

We visited Petra, a UN World Heritage Site. (These sites are found in 118 countries and include landmarks such as the Statue of Liberty and the Grand Canyon.) Though this city in Jordan's southern desert was lost for a thousand years, it's become a popular attraction, and parts of the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade were filmed there. A truly magical place with buildings carved from sandstone cliffs, Petra's early morning and late afternoon light transforms the location into a mystical, seductive experience. While there, we camped with Bedouins in the desert and rode with the desert police on camels. (Caution: camels are mean, angry animals that spit — not my favorite experience. Let's just say I don't enjoy the process of riding camels. In this case, I enjoyed having ridden them.)

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The King and I
For more updates on Peter Greenberg and his travels, visit the Travel Channel. Or visit the official site of the Jordanian royal family.

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